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Leek “Noodles” with Crème Fraîche and Hazelnut Oil
Serves 4

10 medium leeks
Kosher salt
About 1/3 cup crème fraîche
, or more to taste
1 teaspoon roasted hazelnut oil, or more to taste
Freshly ground black pepper

Trim the vegetables. Trim the roots and tough green tops from the leeks, leaving about 1 inch of pale green. Slice each lengthwise into quarters; then slice each quarter in half again, to make thin strips. Rinse the leeks in several changes of cold water to remove any grit; drain well.

Pan–steam the vegetables. Place the leeks in a large heavy skillet; add enough water to come halfway up the leeks. Bring to a boil over high heat, cover, and cook, tossing occasionally, until the leeks are almost tender, about 6 minutes. Add salt to taste, uncover, and continue cooking, tossing frequently to separate the strands, until the leeks are very tender, a few minutes longer. Holding the leeks back with the lid, tilt the pan over the sink to let any remaining water drain away.

Dress the vegetables with a mellow fat and hazelnut oil. Place the pan of leeks back on the burner over moderate heat, tossing frequently to let any residual water evaporate, 2 to 3 minutes. Add the crème fraîche and continue simmering the leeks, tossing them frequently. At first the crème fraîche will look watery; gradually, it will thicken again to make a luxurious coating on the leeks. Stir in the hazelnut oil and adjust the seasoning, adding freshly ground pepper to taste. Serve at once.